...the accuracy of the second octave may be controlled by the dimensions of the staple. To a certain extent, the lower octave's relative intonation is also controlled by the staple. By varying the length of the staple, and therefore the working length of the reed, you may affect first octave intonation. All other factors being equal, a longer reed will make the upper notes of the first octave flat, relative to the lower notes. Similarly, a shorter reed will produce sharper upper notes. A change in length will affect the pitch of all the notes of the gamut, but since such a change is proportionally greater for a tone hole closer to the reed than for one farther from it, the effect is greater for the higher tone holes. The relative accuracy of the scale in the upper (i.e. left-hand notes) and particularly of the thumb note D, is also affected to some extent by the width of the cane blades, which will be discussed later. (Quinn)

The accuracy of the notes of the second register, or upper octave, may be controlled to a great extent by the internal dimensions of the staple... ...By increasing the diameter of the bore at a point where an antinode is formed for a particular note, that note will become sharper. Antinodes for most (of) the notes of the second octave are formed in that section of the bore which is the staple. Local adjustment of the accuracy of a range of notes can be made by adjusting the size and rate of taper of the staple. (Quinn)

This has little if any effect on the performance of the reed, but may reduce the risk of chipping or splitting the reed when inserting the chanter into its stock. (Quinn)

Cover top edge of hole with sticky tape and/or ease blowing pressure on faulty note. Excess tape quiets note, blowing irregularity complicates playing fast tunes. (Daye)

Use tape and/or rushes to flatten other notes and/or blow harder on faulty note. Excess tape quiets note, blowing irregularity complicates playing fast tunes. (Daye)

1) Slide bridle downwards and/or pinch bridle more closed. Reed becomes more sharp in first octave except for back D, easier to blow on 2nd octave, more likely to gurgle on bottom D and vary with pressure on back D.
2) Sand entire surface of blades lightly and carefully making them very slightly thinner. Reed becomes more flat overall, easier to play, may become more difficult to jump to 2nd octave. Back D may become more willing to vary in pitch or gurgle. (Daye)

1) Slide bridle upwards and/or pinch bridle more open. Reed becomes more flat in first octave except for back D, harder to blow on 2nd octave, less likely to gurgle on bottom D or vary with pressure on back D.
2) Trim end of blades very sightly making them very slightly shorter. Reed becomes sharper especially in 2nd octave, may be resistant and gurgly or squeaky in 1st octave requiring sanding as above. (Daye)

1) Pull reed out in reed seat. Flattens top holes more.
2) Add wire "rush" inside bore. Tone more mellow, 1st octave notes flattened more.
3) Loosen bridle carefully and move to lower position if there is room; retighten carefully to restore desired strength. Flattens top holes more, may make back D more sensitive to pressure. Hard D may become easier to make.
4) Sand entire surface of blades lightly and carefully making them very slightly thinner. Reed becomes more flat overall, easier to play, may become more difficult to jump to 2nd octave. Back D may become more willing to vary in pitch or gurgle. (Daye)

1) Push reed deeper into reed seat. Sharpens top holes more.
2) Remove "rush" from bore if present. Sharpens 1st octave more.
3) Loosen bridle carefully and move to slightly higher position; retighten carefully to restore desired strength. Strengthens and sharpens back D. Hard D may become more difficult to make, may gurgle.
4) Trim end of blades very sightly making them very slightly shorter. Reed becomes sharper especially in 2nd octave, may be resistant and gurgly or squeaky in 1st octave requiring sanding. (Daye)

1) In dry air: Add wire "rush" or push bridle up or more open. Tone more mellow, 1st octave notes flattened more. Strengthens and sharpens back D. Hard D may become more difficult to make, may gurgle.
2) In usual or damp air: sand or scrape lower half of scrape thinner. Test frequently. Hard D flatter and easier to play, reed easier to play overall.
3) In usual or damp air: lengthen V of scrape at the bottom. Remove bridle, scrape with blade toward binding. Unwrap top of binding and extend V up to 1/4" into binding area. Rebind and fit bridle. Test frequently. Overall pitch lowers permanently and significantly. Reed can become slightly easier to play, flatter on bottom notes.
4) Or trim reed slightly shorter to sharpen 2nd octave, sand entire scrape to re-flatten entire reed. Reed becomes sharper especially in 2nd octave, may be resistant and gurgly or squeaky in 1st octave requiring sanding: Reed becomes more flat overall, easier to play, may become more difficult to jump to 2nd octave. Back D may become more willing to vary in pitch or gurgle.
5) If making own reeds: be sure staple is correct size /shape; make next reed blades wider or with more inside volume. Back D flatter, may be more pressure sensitive. (Daye)

1) In damp air: remove rush if present (sharpens 1st octave more) or pull bridle lower or more closed (Sharpens 1st octave more. Reed becomes more sharp in first octave except for back D, easier to blow on 2nd octave, more likely to gurgle on bottom D and vary with pressure on back D).
2) In usual or dry air: insert thin straight wire rush into staple, hold with spot of glue. May make back D more pressure sensitive.
3) Or sand reed edges carefully to make reed slightly narrower (1/64" or 0.4 mm). Back D stronger and sharper.
4) If making own reeds: be sure staple is correct size /shape; make next reed blades narrower or with less inside volume. Back D sharper, more stable. (Daye)

1) Reed too open/strong, tighten/lower bridle. Flattens top holes more, may make back D more sensitive to pressure. Hard D may become easier to make.
2) Reed easy & very free in first octave: Centerline too thin especially upper half. Trim reed length slightly as discussed above, take care not to over-thin centerline when re-sanding. Reed becomes sharper especially in 2nd octave, may be resistant and gurgly or squeaky in 1st octave requiring sanding as above. (Daye)

1) Tighten/lower bridle. Flattens top holes more, may make back D more sensitive to pressure. Hard D may become easier to make.
2) Trim reed slightly shorter (especially if more than 3.25" long: Penny Chanter reed only). Reed becomes sharper especially in 2nd octave, may be resistant and gurgly or squeaky in 1st octave requiring sanding as above.
3) 1 or more edges too thick/stiff. Sand/scrape along the sides of the scrape possibly as far as any thick edge(s), especially upper half. Back D more likely to gurgle. (Daye)

If making own reeds: be sure staple is correct size /shape; make next reed blades narrower and/or longer above binding, possibly staple slightly longer.
2) Take reed apart, squeeze upper end of staple thinner over top 1 1/8" of length but leave the eye unchanged. Reassemble to exactly the original length. Reed will become slightly more open; edges may open if bridle is moved up for strong, loud reed. (Daye)

1) If making own reeds: be sure staple is correct size /shape; make next reed blades wider and/or shorter above binding, possibly staple slightly shorter.
2) Take reed apart, squeeze upper end of staple fatter (more open) over top 1 1/8" of length but leave the eye unchanged. Reassemble to exactly the original length. Reed will become slightly more closed; lips may shut if bridle is moved down for easy, quiet reed. Take apart and gouge slightly more room for staple below the eye level.
3) Take reed apart, superglue paper or thin metal or plastic .010" - .020" over top 1 1/8" of length of one side of the staple up to the eye, to make staple fatter on the outside. This makes cane head contain more air space. Reassemble to exactly the original length. Reed will become slightly more closed; lips may shut if bridle is moved down for easy, quiet reed. Take apart and gouge slightly more room for staple below the eye level. (Daye)